KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 25 — Fresh off a Michelin Selected nod for Terra Dining, Chef Chong Yu Cheng has opened Esca, calling it a “real-life experiment in breaking rules.”
“There was always an idea, though not concrete, to have something more free and casual,” Chong explains, “where the food doesn’t have to be as elaborate and thought out as Terra, where it needs to fit a bigger picture.”
Chef Chong Yu Cheng, seated, with the kitchen team at Esca. — Picture courtesy of Esca
He adds that the decision was also pragmatic: “There was also the thought of diversifying income streams, the numbers (volume of diners) in fine dining aren’t really there.”
Named after the Latin word for ‘food’, Esca reflects a growing trend of casual offshoots from fine dining establishments.
These spots aim to draw diners in without the pretence or formality of fine dining.
Esca has a small cocktail program, comprising original and classic drinks (left). The dining area (right).— Pictures courtesy of Esca
With no strict philosophy, the menu embraces “creative chaos,” pulling influences from around the world: Balinese sambal matah and Tunisian harissa sit alongside Spanish pulpo gallego and classic French beurre blanc.
The message is “anything goes” — but does everything work?
The restaurant’s location on Jalan Petaling was a deliberate choice by Chong.
“We chose Petaling Street because it’s a vibrant, high-volume, touristy area,” he says, “and we felt that we’re offering something really international that can appeal to a wide audience.”
Barramundi Crudo, a refreshing dish that uses acidity to make you want to drink. — Picture by Ethan Lau
True to its surroundings, Esca sits on a stretch better known for drinks than meals – Penrose, ranked eighth in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024, is just a few doors away.
The restaurant also caters to the area’s considerable tourist foot traffic, with wanderers enticed to stop in for a drink or two.
Esca obliges with a compact cocktail program and a small wine selection curated by Hin Han Lai, winner of the Michelin Guide 2025 Sommelier Award at Terra Dining.
There isn’t a wine list; just ask Han, and he’ll walk you through their selection.
The menu is split into eight appetisers, five mains, and two desserts, with the front-loading of appetisers feeling deliberate – these are best thought of as bar bites, perfectly designed to complement a drink or two.
Triple-cooked Potato comes with capers, pickled shallots and feta cream. — Picture by Ethan Lau
For a meal as a pair, expect to spend around RM150 per person for two starters, two mains, and a drink each.
The Barramundi Crudo (RM36) is a fruity, refreshing, and tangy starter: diced mango, chilli, and thinly sliced kacang botol scattered around cubes of fish in a tart coconut water and lime dressing.
Unlike conventional drinking food, this dish leans on acidity instead of salt to get your salivary glands working overtime.
Still, there’s an assured grasp of the power of acidity in other dishes that belies the “chaos” motif.
Bean Stew is hearty and comforting, with shreds of smoked duck and flatbread.— Picture by Ethan Lau
Prawn Toast (RM28) is one of the menu’s best bites – deep-fried, crispy prawn-filled bread bursting with flavour, thanks to a mayonnaise made with prawn roe. Pickled shallots an cornichons add a sharp, tangy kick.
Honestly, you could turn this into a drinking game: take a sip every time you see the word “prawn”.
Even the Triple-cooked Potato (RM22) leans into acidity, with chilli oil laced nuggets of crispy, fluffy goodness topped with pickled shallots, capers, and a generous squirt of feta cream.
The capers and feta cream not only bring the salt but also a briny, sour edge, much like the addictive tang of salt and vinegar potato crisps.
Other highlights included Lamb Baos (RM28) – soft, fluffy buns filled with lamb keema.
The bold, spiced flavours of coriander and cardamom were balanced by a lively yoghurt sauce and baby spinach.
Esca’s Bean Stew (RM32) was hearty and warming, with strips of smoked duck nestled among tender, but not mushy, beans.
It’s not exactly what you’d expect to order at a restaurant blasting Flo Milli while the next table downs glasses of Tanqueray like there’s no tomorrow, but each bite, paired with a tear of buttery flatbread, was brilliant.
Explaining to my mother how I knew all the words to “Never Lose Me,” though, was another matter entirely.
From the mains section, the Cauliflower (RM38) sounded promising with its Sichuan-style mala dressing, caramelised onions, and cashew bits, but it fell short each time I tried it.
The cauliflower lacked char, the onions weren’t sweet enough, and the cashews, too large and unwieldy, needed a finer chop for better texture.
Red Snapper comes with a harissa beurre blanc, and a sliced and grilled cucumber salad. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Instead, go for the Red Snapper (RM68), perfectly grilled and served with a warming harissa beurre blanc and a salad resembling a Chinese smashed cucumber salad, thinly sliced and grilled for added smokiness.
The Lamb Saddle (RM98) was even better, though they were out of the saddle, so we were served a rack of lamb instead.
No matter, as they were grilled to a perfect pink, and the real star was the brilliant dried shrimp and orange sambal.
The punchy, salty, and fruity elements complemented the lamb beautifully.
Textures of Yam features three preparations of yam with chunks of brûléed pineapple.— Picture by Ethan Lau
The begedil carrot purée, however, tasted only of carrot, meaning I couldn’t detect the begedil aspect, though the sweetness still worked.
To close the meal, a choice of two desserts awaits, though only one truly stands out.
Textures of Yam (RM28) is exactly that, yet so much more.
Soft pillows of yam, drenched in yam cream and topped with yam crisps, might sound too starchy, but the brûléed pineapple chunks add a peppy, not cloying sweetness, leaving the palate satisfied rather than overwhelmed.
It’s a great dessert – a brilliant reminder of the creativity in the kitchen, highlighting Esca as an exciting addition to this storied street.
Esca
135G, Jalan Petaling (below The Hungry Tapir),
Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Thursday, 5-11pm.
On Friday to Sunday, 5pm-12am.
Tel: 017-982 5753
Instagram: @esca.kl
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
