KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 23 — It has been just over three months since Bistro Léa, one of the most en vogue French bistros in town, officially opened its doors in Sri Hartamas.
Their story is likely familiar by now: a return to culinary roots for chef-owner Lau Ka Hong of Atelier Binchotan.
He honed his craft in classical French cooking, including a two-year stint at Joël Robuchon Restaurant in Singapore’s Resorts World Sentosa, then the country’s sole three-Michelin-starred establishment.
Ratatouille here looks nothing like the movie version, but it is done well. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Bistro Léa is a pastiche of the Parisian bistrot, with its cosy, charming setting in the quieter neighbourhood side of Sri Hartamas making it a favourite spot for ladies who lunch, while the courtyard comes alive in the evening for the vibrant dinner crowd.
It’s no slice of Paris however; there aren’t enough cigarettes or uppity glares, and there’s far too much space between the tables. You’ll have to work those ears to eavesdrop here.
But what about the food?
The pork-free menu features classics like soupe à l’oignon (onion soup), ratatouille (not the movie), and boeuf bourguignon (Burgundy beef stew).
Finger-lickin’ good frog. — Picture by Ethan Lau
It underwhelmed me on my first visit but has since improved by leaps and bounds – so much so that three friends and I had an almost-perfect meal on a recent revisit.
Don’t expect Bistro Léa’s Ratatouille (RM28) to look anything like the confit byaldi variation from the Pixar film.
However, it does share the use of a piperade (a reduction of tomato, onion, and red pepper), which was chef Thomas Keller’s twist on chef Michel Guérard’s original for the movie.
The result is a dish where long slabs of peppers, zucchini, and eggplant are rendered soft and sweet, allowing each bite to highlight the vegetable’s natural flavour – a welcome start to the meal, with no childhood flashbacks required.
Les Grenouilles (RM68), or frog legs, were next to hit the table.
Oeufs Meurette, a luxe dish of a poached egg in a rich ‘meurette’ sauce. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Anyone from a Chinese household is likely familiar with frog as a protein, but for the uninitiated, believe me when I say it tastes exactly like chicken – just mild, white meat.
These, however, were on a whole other level.
Lightly pan-fried and drenched in the most delightful persillade (parsley and garlic mixture), they were then laid to rest on a bed of garlic purée. This was real finger-lickin’ good eating.
Rounding off the impressive entrées was Oeufs Meurette (RM55), Léa’s take on the classic Burgundian dish of poached eggs in meurette sauce.
Traditionally made with bacon, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and, of course, a Burgundy red (Pinot noir), this version swaps in veal bacon and pearl onions, and adds escargot (snails).
Don’t be alarmed; the sauce was so incredibly rich – so syrupy and thick – that you’ll have eaten one before you know it.
The snails had a springy texture that paired well with the mushrooms and cooked-down veal bacon, all of which surrounded the perfectly poached egg.
Spoon the sauce atop the lush, creamy yolk, and it’s like tasting the feeling of rubbing your face on silk and velvet.
Continuing the Burgundy theme was the Boeuf Bourguignon (RM108), one of the few dishes that truly impressed me the first time I had it here.
Maybe it’s the luxury of using Wagyu beef cheek (hence the price tag), the unctuous sauce, or the silky smooth, ultra-decadent Robuchon pommes purée that comes with it – maybe it’s all three.
Some dishes are just winners. And this is one of them.
Then, somehow, another winner of a dish followed it: Ris de Veau (RM90), or veal sweetbreads, pan-fried and served with a red wine sauce.
These were plump and supple in the centre, sporting a magnificent crust.
Ris de Veau, pan-fried veal sweetbreads in the perfect red wine sauce. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Too often, I’ve encountered versions where the crust was either too hard or limp; this one was light and crispy.
We lapped up every drop of the sticky, almost chocolatey reduction that came with it.
If I have one complaint, it would be that the Poire Pochée (RM38) was a disappointing end to what had otherwise been the perfect meal.
The poached pear was hard, and the mascarpone in the centre felt very out of place.
The outside of Bistro Léa. — Picture courtesy of Bistro Léa
The sunflower seeds added nothing to the equation, and the white wine sauce was simply not sweet enough.
While dessert can make or break a meal, fortunately, the rest of the meal was exemplary.
We left the restaurant thoroughly pleased, though I hope for a more fitting conclusion to the excellent cooking next time around.
Bistro Léa will be closed from January 27 to January 30 for the Chinese New Year. They will reopen for dinner on January 31.
Bistro Léa
1, Jalan Sri Hartamas 7, Taman Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Friday, 12-3pm, 6-11pm.
On Saturday and Sunday, 9am-11pm.
Tel: 012-810 3638
Reservations: Bistro Lea
Instagram: @bistrolea
• This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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• Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
