Shanghai-style ‘xiao long bao’, ‘shao mai’ and ‘wontons’ lead the way at the newly-opened Shanghai Street in SS2

November 28, 2024
9:31 am

PETALING JAYA, Nov 28 — Newly opened in SS2 is Shanghai Street, an all-day dining concept specialising in Shanghainese dumplings like xiao long bao, sheng jian bao, guotie, and handmade wontons.

The menu also features dishes from other regions of China, including zhajiangmian and mapo tofu.

Opened in mid-October, this is the sixth location of the brand founded by Chef Feng Mei, a native of Anhui, China, who spent 15 years in Shanghai’s catering industry before settling in Malaysia.

It’s been open for just over a month, but Shanghai Street is already a hit here. — Picture by Ethan Lau

The first Shanghai Street launched in Cheras Trader’s Square in 2020, followed by outlets in Sri Petaling (temporarily closed), Kuchai Lama, Puchong, Kepong, and now SS2.

Though it has only been open for slightly over a month, the SS2 location is already a hit.

During both my visits, the restaurant was packed at lunch and dinner.

Most tables were laden with a medley of dumplings – the signature xiao long bao (RM8.50 for 3), the fried bun or sheng jian bao (RM10 for 3) and the Shanghai shao mai (RM7.80 for 3) were the most popular choices.

The xiao long bao lived up to expectations, with hot, sweet soup and pork bursting from its wrapper.

Shanghainese specialities: ‘sheng jian bao’ (left) and Shanghai-style ‘shao mai’ (right) with glutinous rice and pork as a filling. — Picture by Ethan Lau

While the wrapper wasn’t the most delicate I’ve had, it was pliable enough to hold the filling, sagging gently toward the centre.

Sheng jian bao, a true Shanghainese speciality, offers a unique combination of textures.

It combines the juicy pork and soup filling of xiao long bao with the crisp, pan-fried texture of a guotie and the soft, doughy bite of a bao.

This quintessential breakfast item, popular in both Shanghai and Suzhou, is known for its medley of flavours.

However, here, the yeasty, bread-like flavour of the fried bottom overpowered the mild filling.

Even a generous splash of black vinegar struggled to offset the overwhelming taste of dough.

Wontons’ two ways: mixed flavour (left) in a seaweed-infused broth, and Sichuan spicy (right) in a sour and spicy chilli oil and vinegar mixture. — Picture by Ethan Lau

The Shanghai shao mai are something of a novelty here.

Most, myself included, are probably more familiar with the Cantonese version that is an essential part of dim sum.

Unlike its smaller counterpart, the Shanghai variety traditionally features glutinous rice with pork, mushrooms and other fillings steamed with soy sauce and Shao Xing wine – similar to a zongzi – wrapped in a larger, siu mai–shaped dumpling.

The version here stays true to tradition, with large, sticky dumplings best enjoyed with a dollop of chilli oil.

Both the mixed flavour wontons (RM14 for 8) and Sichuan spicy wontons (RM15 for 8) were impressive.

The former featured plump, juicy wontons swimming in a clear broth, its contents darkened by seaweed.

The latter offered the same wontons bathed in a tart, fiery mix of chilli oil and vinegar – a punchy contrast to the soothing broth.

The ‘zhajiangmian’ has lots of textural contrast. — Picture by Ethan Lau

Beyond dumplings, Shanghai Street also offers a variety of noodle dishes that showcase regional Chinese flavours.

Zhajiangmian, labelled “pork noodles served with bean sauce” (RM16), is far more than its name suggests.

Thin wheat noodles, topped with a pile each of thinly julienned carrots and cucumbers, crushed peanuts for texture and minced pork sauce, made for a surprisingly hearty dish with lots of textural contrast to boot.

Carrots, cucumbers and peanuts provided the crunch, while the noodles and the mince delivered the slurp factor.

Spicy old Shanghai spicy pork noodles are not for the faint of heart. — Picture by Ethan Lau

Feeling brave? The spicy old Shanghai spicy meat noodles (RM16.50) might be just the thing.

The dry version combines a fiery mix of pork chunks and potato with wheat noodles, ensuring every strand is coated in chilli.

My only gripe? The hard-boiled egg, which also featured in the zhajiangmian, had a hard, powdery yolk – I’d have preferred it jammy instead.

Rice is, naturally, an option here.

‘Mapo tofu’ rice is a comforting bowl. — Picture by Ethan Lau

The mapo tofu rice (RM14) and stir-fried cumin sliced pork with rice (RM16.50) are two standout choices.

The mapo tofu was numbing but not overly fiery, thanks to generous use of Sichuan peppercorns, and its gloopy texture paired perfectly with rice.

The cumin pork was surprisingly spicy, with chilli and red onions complementing the bold cumin flavour, making the tender pork slices irresistibly moreish.