KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 12 – Those of us who used to binge on new seasons of Mad Men would recall how Don Draper’s cocktail of choice was the Old Fashioned. Simple syrup muddled with bitters, a nice hit of bourbon and a zesty garnish of orange peel, and you have a classic drink.
Classics aren’t immune to adaptations and homages, of course. Even a minor twist can elevate what used to be a gold standard.
This is what the good folks at Wushan Dalang, a cocktail bar located just off Old Klang Road, believe in. Their take, mischievously named New Fashioned, pairs Angostura bitters with a sugar cube and the whiskey with orange liqueur. (The orange peel remains, for a fitting flourish.)
Wushan Dalang is founded by Sam Lim (left) and Mon Lim (right).
Wushan Dalang is run by Mon Lim, 43, formerly a performance art producer, and Sam Lim, 36, an architect and designer by trade. The duo had previously co-founded Café Yamatatsu, a popular Japanese-Taiwanese fusion restaurant, in 2020.
Mon shares, “Since opening, Yamatatsu has been a reflection of our creative spirits, offering an unforgettable dining experience. Together, we built Yamatatsu as a space where Japanese and Taiwanese flavours meet in exciting ways.”
That partnership has now extended to their new cocktail bar. The venture remains close to home; the shop is located one floor above the existing Café Yamatatsu venue.
What’s up Bee (left). Yamatatsu Island (right).
This time, rather than using something more Japanese sounding again, they brainstormed a name that celebrated their successful working relationship.
Mon explains, “The name Wushan Dalang (吾山達郎) is a unique blend of both our Chinese names. ‘Shan” (山) is taken from Sam’s name, while ‘Da’ (達) represents my name, Mon. Together, these characters symbolise more than just names—they embody the spirit of our journey and the restaurant’s philosophy.”
That overarching philosophy began with their shared love for good cocktails. Mon says, “This led us to classes and workshops, where we deepened our knowledge and began experimenting to create our own unique recipes. Each cocktail at Wushan Dalang reflects this journey—a blend of creativity, precision, and a taste for the extraordinary.”
The intimate bar and dining area.
One comparison I made in my earlier article about Café Yamatatsu was how the shop exuded the charm of “the cult favourite show Midnight Diner (Shinya shokudō).”
Turns out Mon and Sam were indeed inspired by the Japanese izakaya culture, as one of their favourite shows is – no prizes for guessing here – Midnight Diner. This vision is even more pronounced with Wushan Dalang.
Mon recalls, “Sam drew from its late-night, intimate vibes to design our space, creating a cozy yet sophisticated atmosphere that feels like a modern take on a Japanese midnight diner. It’s a place where you can relax, enjoy handcrafted cocktails, and feel right at home.”
Regulars who visit Wushan Dalang certainly do feel right at home, each having their own favourite tipple. Among the most popular is the curiously named What’s Up Bee.
Mon shares, “What’s Up Bee was inspired by our love for Japanese flavours, so we decided to give it a fun twist. It starts off fresh with crisp cucumber and a smooth mix of sake and vodka—a blend that brings together a little bit of Japan and a little bit of the West.”
But beyond an obvious mingling of disparate cultures, the cocktail still has surprises for the jaded cocktail connoisseur: a touch of wasabi that sneaks in at the end, giving it just the right amount of warmth.
As Mon notes, this is a drink that is pleasantly refreshing: “…with a little kick that makes it unforgettable. If you’re up for a cocktail with personality, this is the one!”
Shiro Ramen with Smoked Chicken Roll (left). Grilled Pork Belly (right).
Another well received cocktail is their Yamatatsu Island. Mixing sake with infused hojicha, the duo added five types of base liquor – gin, vodka, whiskey, tequila and umeshu – together with honey and pandan for a balanced sweetness.
Mon says, “In our menu, we have one category called Classic Twist where we recreate classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned to the New Fashioned, New York Sour to Old Klang Road Sour, and Long Island to Yamatatsu Island.”
The approach to doing business differs slightly here too. Mon explains, “At Yamatatsu, our focus is on stability and consistency. To achieve this, we’ve developed strict SOPs and carefully refined our dishes to appeal to a broad audience.”
In contrast, Wushan Dalang is all about embracing freedom, Mon says, which manifests itself aesthetically with the more intimate bar and dining area.
He adds, “The name itself means ‘to be who you are’, capturing the spirit of exploration that defines this space. Wushan Dalang is our playground for creativity; here we allow ourselves the freedom to experiment, follow our instincts and express ourselves through each dish and drink.”
Yes, dishes too. Whilst Wushan Dalang is primarily a cocktail bar, its food menu is decent and izakaya-inspired.
English Sunshine (left). American Pie (right).
Try the Shiro Ramen or Kuro Garlic Ramen with toppings such as Smoked Chicken Roll. Grilled Pork Belly and Mentaiko Loaf pair smoky char with savoury notes. For sides, you can’t go wrong with their Drunken Chicken or Chuka Asari (seasoned clams).
Mon says, “We are really excited to share that we’ve just updated our food and cocktail menu. We believe in keeping things fresh and dynamic, so our menu will change from time to time.”
This might be traversing a transatlantic tour with their English Sunshine (vodka infused with Earl Grey tea with a sweet cinnamon aftertaste) and American Pie (whiskey, Jägermeister and apple), or returning to their Midnight Diner roots with grilled nagaimo (Japanese mountain yam) with cheese.
Mon puts it best: “Wushan Dalang is more than just a name; it’s an invitation to dine authentically, experience something unique, and celebrate individuality through food. It’s all about sharing our passion for food and drinks in a way that keeps everyone coming back for more!”
Wushan Dalang 吾山達郎
30-1 (1st Floor), Jln 2/131A, Project Jaya Industrial Estate, Off Old Klang Road, KL
Open Fri-Sun 7pm-1am; Mon-Thu closed
Phone: 011-5362 1224
