PETALING JAYA, Dec 6 — Those of us familiar with the neighbourhood of Damansara Jaya will likely know Restoran Wing Hiong Bah Kut Teh, located just a few doors away from the newly-opened Chao Zhou Fang.
Originally a branch of Klang’s famed Weng Heong Bak Kut Teh, the arrangement’s status has grown unclear over its nine years of operation.
I used to frequent it as a convenient, more-than-decent option when a trek to Klang wasn’t on the cards, but after a string of disappointing visits, I stopped going.
Fast-forward to this July: I spotted a bright orange sign for “Xin Wing Hiong Bah Kut Teh” go up for a brand new shop, across from TS Delicious Food stall in Sea Park.
Everything seemed to match up, from the distinct spellings of “hiong” and “bah”, to the same Chinese characters in “永香”.
New sign, new shop, and a new lease on life. — Picture by Ethan Lau
A later visit confirmed this as a second location, run by the same friendly owner — now a little older, a little wiser — of Wing Hiong in Damansara Jaya.
So, has the bak kut teh improved?
My recent revisit suggests a return to form.
The claypot bak kut teh (RM60 for three people) delivered the deep, rich flavour I remembered from its early days.
The broth, enriched by fatty, savoury cuts of small bone and half-and-half of fat and lean meat, was also layered with herbal notes.
In the last few visits to the Damansara Jaya outpost, the broth lacked this sort of character and vigour; but if this is anything to go by, the new (and improved!) Wing Hiong has rediscovered some of its earlier magic.
We like to add a lot of ‘fu chuk pei’ to our ‘bak kut teh’. — Picture by Ethan Lau
If you’re a fan of bold, intense bak kut teh but prefer to avoid a greasy, heart-stopping affair, this is for you.
As is customary with my family, we like to add a lot of beancurd skin, or fu chuk pei (RM9), which softens beautifully in the bubbling broth. Its spongy, slightly chewy texture absorbed the herbal richness, making it a delight with every bite.
At RM60 for the claypot, this isn’t the cheapest bak kut teh in town, but it feels like fair value if they keep their standards up.
It’s not quite a Klang-level pilgrimage, but for those in the neighbourhood — or those like me, returning with cautious hope — Xin Wing Hiong might just be worth the detour.
薪永香肉骨茶馆 Restoran Xin Wing Hiong Bah Kut Teh
30, Jalan 21/19, Sea Park, Petaling Jaya
Open daily, 10am-10pm.
Tel: 016-388 7996
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
** Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
*** Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
