PETALING JAYA, Feb 21 — How do you know a Melaka food item is authentic?
Well, the proof is in how it looks.
I had sent a photo of this Melaka fish paste noodles or what the Melakans call yee kiao, to a Melakan friend of mine and she replied, “Oh are you in Melaka now?”
No, I wasn’t in Melaka.
Instead, those noodles came from Damansara Perdana’s Restoran Four Eight 8888’s new food stall that opened last Saturday.
It’s operated by Pua Yen Ling who hails from Alor Gajah.
Previously a property agent for four years, she decided to hang her licence up for an F&B career.
In a way, she’s returning back to her roots, as she originally trained at Subang Jaya’s Cilantro Culinary Art School.
About two months ago, she opened her stall at Kopitiam Number One which is behind Restoran Four Eight 8888.
The stall can be found near the entrance of the coffee shop. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
However, as they decided to cease business since no one was available to operate the coffee shop, she relocated here instead.
This business is part of her husband’s family network of stalls, where they offer Ho Hee Seafood Noodles and Lam Mee.
Her mother-in-law runs the stall in Restoran Meng Yang Two in Kota Damansara and her father-in-law takes charge of a stall at Taman Megah’s Hakka Legend Restoran.
In addition, her husband operates at Restoran Woh Gei in Bandar Sri Damansara
Everything is kept in the family as the stalls all use the fish balls, fish cake, fish skin dumpling or her kiao sourced from her husband’s uncle who makes them in the Klang Valley.
It’s only at her stall that you can find Melaka Fish Paste Noodles (RM9 for small, RM10 for big), a nod towards her hometown.
The noodles will pull those missing the taste of Melaka, as it uses the distinctive orange coloured fish cake sliced thinly till it curls up. Even the chilli sauce is brought in from Melaka.
At the request of her regulars, she also offers deep fried beancurd skin puff layered with fish paste, sourced from Melaka.
I could happily kidnap this bowl of deep fried ‘fuchuk’ puffs home. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Have the noodles dry like how the Melakans enjoy it. There’s a smooth mix of kuey teow and flat yellow noodles tossed with lard, soy sauce and chopped spring onions.
One needs to add the mild tasting chilli sauce on the side to perk up the noodles.
The smooth orange fish cake is mixed with the soft white fish cake, made in the Klang Valley.
Enjoy it with the sweet tasting clear broth that is made from fish bones and a piece of deep fried fuchuk layered with fish paste.
That roll packs a distinct taste of soybeans, making one slowly savour it bite by bite.
No wonder some regulars like to order extra to take it away. If I could, I would have kidnapped the whole bowl too.
Seaweed Ho Hee Fishball Noodles is a simple, comforting bowl of fish balls, ‘her kiao’ and seaweed. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
For a taste of the fish balls and her kiao, order the Seaweed Ho Hee Fishball Noodles (RM9 for small, RM10 for big).
Usually at their other stalls, they omit the seaweed. Pua added the seaweed as that’s how they serve it in Melaka.
You will find that the fish ball has a smooth texture with a softer bite, while the her kiao or fish skin dumplings have a not overly thick skin with a slight chewiness and pork filling.
The flavours are simple — smooth kuey teow noodles with shredded poached chicken — paired with crunchy, plump Ipoh sourced bean sprouts.
Add on a bowl of fish balls, ‘her kiao’ and beancurd skin puff for a satisfying meal. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
If the Melaka Fish Paste Noodles is not enough for you, an alternative would be to add on the fish balls and her kiao in a separate bowl. It’s RM12 for 10 pieces of fish balls and her kiao plus one piece of that fuchuk roll..
Lam Mee (RM9 for small, RM10 for big) is also found here, which tends to run out quickly, sometimes by 10am.
Apparently it’s a family recipe but some of her customers claim that it’s similar to what they have tried in Kedah.
Lam Mee based on a family recipe has a not overly starchy texture that makes it easy to slurp down. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
This version with its dark brown hue has just the right amount of starch for the gravy to cling onto the flat yellow noodles. There’s shredded chicken, slices of hard boiled egg, fish paste, strands of beaten egg and crunchy bean sprouts.
The flavours tend to be quite mild. For more oomph, add more of the zingy, spicy homemade chilli sauce. Vinegar is also available upon request.
Don’t miss out on the Shrimp Dumplings. Either order the Shrimp Dumpling Noodles (RM10 for small, RM11 for big) or just one dumpling for RM1.50.
Shrimp Dumplings (left) are juicy, plump specimens packed with minced pork laced with Shao Xing rice wine while each Shrimp Dumpling has a piece of prawn (right). — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
These dumplings are only available here and at Restoran Woh Gei.
Each piece is generously filled with minced pork with a piece of prawn. What makes it unique is that distinct aroma of Shao Xing rice wine.
Dining at this bustling coffee shop can get quite hectic especially during lunch time. The breakfast crowd is a little more subdued.
Other good eats here include Frankie’s char kway teow, which is only available after 10.30am.
Whether it’s breakfast or lunch, Restoran Four Eight 8888 attracts a crowd of diners. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Melaka Fish Paste Noodle stall,
Restoran Four Eight 8888,
Ground Floor, 22A, Jalan PJU8/5C,
Damansara Perdana,
Petaling Jaya.
Open: 7am to 2pm or until food runs out.
Closed every alternate Sunday of the month.
The next day for closure will be March 2.
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
