KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 6 — When I started this job two years ago, I made a promise to myself to never, ever use the word “umami” in an article. Today, I’m breaking that promise.
I never thought pan mee would be the dish that made me cave.
Sure, anchovies and mushrooms are the backbone of its savouriness – whether reconstituted for the broth or as crisp, whole pieces – but that’s about it.
Neither the sambal nor the minced meat mixture lean particularly savoury, but that’s exactly how it should be.
The front of the shop has no sign, just a canopy and chairs. — Picture by Ethan Lau
This dish is all about the pleasure of the noodles’ texture; everything else is the supporting cast – solid and dependable, but firmly in the background.
I walked into Kung Fu Smooth Pan Mee fully expecting a triumph in texture.
Located under some flats facing the back of Pasar Taman Sri Sentosa, I’d heard and read lots about their hand-pulled noodles, with the wider, thicker variety singled out for praise in particular.
A small bowl – and I do mean small; I had to order two more – of dry pan mee with thick noodles (RM8.50) delivers a few mouthfuls of chewy, toothsome goodness.
But it’s the sauce they’re tossed in that truly blew me away.
Once tossed, the noodles glisten in that glorious sauce. — Picture by Ethan Lau
This mushroom-based concoction is the undisputed star of the show, and it is definitely worth breaking my promise for.
Earthy and savoury, dialled up to a hundred, it’s pure dopamine for the palate – an unrelenting “umami” bomb.
Forget the minced pork. Forget the anchovies. This is all about chewing and savouring every inch of thick noodle in that slick, addictive sauce.
They’re far too wide to slurp up, which is a good thing; the longer you work on each strand, the more satisfying it becomes.
Later on, I watched them take delivery of more mushrooms, which were added to a huge wok, presumably making a fresh batch of sauce for the next round.
A mountain of magical mushrooms. — Picture by Ethan Lau
There it sat – a mountain of mushrooms, promising the most magical “umami” trip around.
Of course, you could order the soup version or the thin noodles, but that means either missing out on the secret sauce – literally – or losing precious surface area for maximum sauce-to-noodle satisfaction.
So do yourself a favour: get the thick noodles, get the dry version, and get ready to chew.
The sauce clings, coats, and blankets every inch, turning each bite into a full-bodied, lip-smacking experience.
It’s messy, it’s indulgent, and it makes breaking a promise feel completely, undeniably worth it.
Kung Fu Smooth Pan Mee (Red Tea Junction) 红茶馆 功夫手拉滑板面
28, Jalan Seri Sentosa 9a,
Taman Sri Sentosa,
Kuala Lumpur
Open daily, 8am-2.30pm. Closed on Monday.
Tel: 016-288 3911
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
