GUANGZHOU, Dec 12 — In the canon of Cantonese traditions, there are few more iconic and perhaps integral to the way of life than yum cha.
Though it translates literally to “drinking tea”, the practice involves eating small, bite-sized dim sum washed down with hot tea at a leisurely pace.
A key principle of yum cha culture is the concept of 一盅两件, or yat zong leung gin, which means “one cup, two items.”
The idea is to order just two items at a time to accompany a cup of tea, instead of overloading the table with baskets of dim sum that turn cold before they’re enjoyed.
As the largest city and capital of Guangdong province, Guangzhou is widely regarded as the centre of Cantonese culture.
While the history of dim sum in Guangzhou dates back to the thirteenth century, it wasn’t until the late nineteenth century that dim sum culture began to flourish.
As a wealthy port city, Guangzhou attracted migrants from other regions in China, as well as foreign merchants and traders.
Their influence can be seen in char siu bao (adapted from Northern Chinese baozi) and in the use of ingredients like ketchup and Worcestershire sauce in dim sum today.
While dim sum is traditionally associated with pushcarts and large trays, many restaurants today have adopted printed sheets or QR ordering systems, allowing diners to continuously add to their order.
Still, the essence of yum cha — a communal ritual steeped in tradition — remains unchanged, and no trip to Guangzhou is complete without a proper yum cha session.
Here’s a list of three establishments that cover everything from a casual neighbourhood spot to a historic institution, and finally, a refined, elegant experience worth queueing for.
Old, and even older. Dian Dou De (left) is a popular ‘dim sum’ chain with many locations in Guangzhou, while Tao Tao Ju (right) is one of the oldest, with the original location dating back to 1880. — Picture by by Ethan Lau
Dian Dou De
One of the most popular dim sum chains in Guangzhou, Dian Dou De boasts numerous branches across the city and in Shenzhen.
In the Tianhe district alone — an area that houses the central business district — there are eight locations; I visited the one on Huacheng Avenue.
A must-order is their signature red rice rolls, 金莎红米肠 (¥34/RM21). A cross between cheong fun and zha leung, each vibrant red roll is filled with shrimp wrapped in crispy youtiao dough, served with sesame sauce and a seasonal soy dip with cilantro and lime.
The signature red rice rolls at are a must-order at Dian Dou De. — Picture by by Ethan Lau
Go for the sesame sauce, which complements the roll perfectly.
Of the four heavenly kings of dim sum (siu mai, har gow, char siu bao and dan taat), their signature siu mai 招牌烧卖 (¥32) and char siu bao 蜜汁叉烧包 (¥25) stood out the most.
Each piece of siu mai was adorned with a whole shrimp, firm and sweet, which paired wonderfully with the savoury, springy pork filling.
The baos were light, fluffy and didn’t stick to my teeth, and sported the hallmark of any good char siu bao: the three-pleat 开口笑 (open-mouthed laugh).
Service was brisk and efficient. While reservations are possible, they’re likely unnecessary, given the size of the restaurant and its proximity to other branches.
Tao Tao Ju’s handling of beef is masterful, in both the rice rolls with beef (left) and steamed beef balls (right). — Picture by by Ethan Lau
Tao Tao Ju Restaurant
A historic institution, Tao Tao Ju was founded in 1880 during the Qing dynasty, with its original location in Liwan district, home to many of Guangzhou’s major historical sites along the Pearl River.
While there are more central and convenient locations — including an upscale branch featured in the Michelin Guide — the Dishifu Road location offers a slice of old Guangzhou, even though the interior has been extensively renovated.
Almost everything we tried was excellent, including the har gow 陶陶居大虾饺 (¥36) with whole sea prawns, siu mai 黑鱼子香菇烧卖皇 (¥30) with caviar, and red rice rolls 锦绣海鲜红米肠 (¥36).
But it was the beef dishes that truly stood out. The rice rolls with beef 陈皮冲菜牛肉肠 (¥36) were smooth on the outside, meaty and bouncy on the inside, filled with a paste-like beef patty infused with the distinct flavour of dried tangerine peel (a classic Cantonese ingredient) and mustard greens.
The steamed beef balls 山竹陈皮牛肉球 (¥30) were similarly superb.
Tao Tao Ju’s ‘char siu bao’ is also excellent, light, fluffy and sporting the three-pleat 开口笑. — Picture by by Ethan Lau
Best of all was the char siu bao 传统鲍汁叉烧包 (¥30), which also sported the 开口笑 pleat.
These soft, pillowy buns were filled with chunky pieces of char siu, which leaned more savoury than sweet thanks to the use of abalone sauce.
Service here is a step above Dian Dou De, with a dedicated tea server ensuring your pot is always full. Be prepared to pay a bit more for the experience.
Arriving early is recommended, as the restaurant is popular with both locals and tourists (mostly domestic). After 11am, larger format Cantonese dishes, including roast goose, are served.
The main boulevard leading into Shamian island (left) and the queue leading into Hongtu Hall at 7.30am (right). — Picture by by Ethan Lau
Hongtu Hall, White Swan Hotel
It’s hard to overstate how coveted a table at Hongtu Hall is, nestled within the iconic White Swan Hotel.
Built in 1983, this five-star hotel has hosted heads of state, including Deng Xiaoping and Queen Elizabeth II.
Located on Shamian island in Liwan District, the hotel offers a glimpse into Guangzhou’s colonial past.
Once a foreign concession for the French and British, the island features wide pedestrian paths, European-style architecture, and a French Catholic chapel.
It was also home to numerous consulates, including the United States, which turned Shamian island into a hub for American families adopting children from China in the late ‘90s, many of whom stayed at the White Swan Hotel.
The hotel is home to not one, but two Michelin-starred restaurants. Jade River was the first to receive this distinction, serving refined Cantonese cuisine and dim sum.
Its popularity led to the opening of Hongtu Hall, which also earned a star, specialising solely in dim sum.
Hongtu Hall opens for yum cha service daily from 8am, while Jade River only does so on weekends.
This distinction is important — it is imperative that you queue at the right restaurant. Hongtu Hall is on the first floor, just past the reception. Yes, I said queue, and yes, this is at a five-star hotel.
Neither restaurant takes reservations unless you’re a hotel guest, so unless you’re rolling in it, get in line like the rest of us.
I highly recommend getting there extremely early. We arrived at 7.30am, and there was a queue of about 10 people already waiting patiently by the doors.
By 8am, we were seated and ready to get our yum cha on. Hongtu Hall boasts a tea list that rivals most fine-dining wine lists in variety, volume, and price.
Everything, from the classics, like the ‘har gao’ (left) to the innovative ‘char siu bao’ and ‘char siu sou’ hybrid (right) is superb at Hongtu Hall. — Picture by by Ethan Lau
Expect to pay around ¥65 per dim sum dish here, nearly double the price of most other spots on this list. However, for a “Michelin-starred” experience in a five-star hotel, it’s pretty good value.
In short, absolutely everything about this place was outstanding. Flawless, even.
Essentials like the fresh shrimp har gow 羊城鲜虾饺 (¥68) and siu mai 鲜虾干蒸烧卖 (¥68) showcased elegant technical mastery, while innovative dishes like the char siu bao 酥皮叉烧包 (¥65) — with an outer layer of char siu sou pastry skin — were nothing short of spectacular. Every dish was an exhibition of refinement and craftsmanship.
Save room for dessert, as we (and every other table) did to try the sachima 榄仁萨其马 (¥58) and deep-fried flour cakes with ginger syrup 姜汁鸡蛋散 (¥55).
The sachima was unlike anything we have in Malaysia — soft strands of fried batter, ethereally light and fluffy, coated in a mildly sweet syrup.
A sweet finish: both the ‘sachima’ (left) and deep-fried flour cakes (right) are a must-have at Hongtu Hall. — Picture by by Ethan Lau
The flour cakes were hollow, crispy, and delicate, with ginger syrup that mellowed out the eggy notes. Simply fantastic.
Service was impeccable, extending far beyond the tableside tea service. Every step of the way, you’re treated like royalty — or at least a head of state.
If visiting on a weekend, do explore the specials. We skipped them as the ones we wanted were unavailable, and the remaining options featured sandworms (not the Shai-Hulud variety). While tempted, we lacked the courage of Muad’Dib to ride the worm.
Note: Most restaurant QR codes will work only if scanned through Alipay or WeChat Pay. If this is inconvenient, you may ask for a paper order sheet.
As a general rule, however, having either app downloaded is a good idea before heading to China.
The Alipay app also provides access to an English-friendly version of DiDi, the de facto e-hailing app used nationwide.
Dian Dou De (Huacheng Store)
点都德(花城店)
Floor 1-2, Block A, Kailan Building,
No. 16 Huacheng Avenue,
Tianhe District, Guangzhou, Guangdong
广东省-广州市-天河区-花城大道16号凯蓝大厦A座1-2层
Open daily: 8am-9pm
Tel: (020) 3726 6163
Tao Tao Ju Restaurant (Headquarters at Dishifu Road)
陶陶居酒家(第十甫路总店)
1st Floor, No. 20, Dishifu Road,
Liwan District, Guangzhou City, Guangdong Province
广东省-广州市-荔湾区-第十甫路20号一楼
Open daily: 8am-4.30pm, 5-9.30pm
Tel: (020) 8050 3899
White Swan Hotel – Hongtu Hall
白天鹅宾馆-宏图府餐厅
2F, White Swan Hotel, No. 1 Shamian South Street,
Liwan District, Guangzhou,
Guangdong Province (near Liuersan Road)
广东省-广州市-荔湾区-沙面南街1号白天鹅宾馆2楼(近六二三路)
Open daily: 8am-2.30pm
Tel: (020) 8188 6968
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
** Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
*** Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
